![]() ![]() Once all steel brake lines are disconnected from the master cylinder, the master cylinder is unbolted from the brake booster and removed from the vehicle.There is usually an electrical plug connecting to a brake fluid level sensor on the master cylinder reservoir and that plug must be disconnected. On vehicles with power brakes, the master cylinder is bolted to the metal housing of the power brake booster.How do mechanics replace the brake master cylinder? If the brake system warning light illuminates, there are several potential causes but failure of the master cylinder is in the list of causes that would have to be investigated. Discoloration of brake fluid can also occur due to moisture and particulate contaminants in the fluid. No brake fluids, other than those specified for the year, make, and model, are fully compatible with a car’s internal rubber seals in the master cylinder. In all cases, you will experience reduced braking abilities. Internal leaks will typically be accompanied by a low pedal, a spongy brake pedal, or a pedal that slowly sinks as you maintain pressure. Faulty internal seals on the piston can cause internal leaks and also seepage of brake fluid into the power assist brake booster. Low, slowly falling, or spongy brake pedal.There should be no fluid visible on the external surfaces of any portion of the master cylinder or the plastic fluid reservoir. I will have under $75 in the whole works. The brake lever will pull a short custom made cable ( made by the local garden tractor and lawnmower repair shop, and will run fluid from a standard -4AN banjo brake fitting from the local stock car racing shop, to the front caliaper. I ordered up a $12 dollar early lever from j&p and like the looks of it. It bolted up, and still fit under my tank tunnel. ![]() I then made a simple tab, and a small standoff, by welding a nut to another piece of tubing to make the mounts for it. I measured the fluid capacity of the front lever master assembly ,and scienced out how much brake fluid it needed to hold, and made a new resivore out of a small piece of 1" tubing I had lying around. My frame had a 1" hole bored through the frame, so I decided thats where the resivore would go. , I then spun a hose barb to use in the new resivore I was going to have to build. The yamaha had the master mounted vertically, and the resivore was stupid, so I went to my buddies with a lathe and spun up a dual ended fitting to stick in the master. I had the guy remove it, and I bought it, it was $15 bucks, and I took it home and scoped it out. I was toying around thinking about welding brackets to a rear master to mount a cable pull lever, but this yamaha deal seemed too easy. It had a cable pulled master cylinder near the headlight. I was at a bike salvage yard and noticed a bike with disc brakes on the front, but no master cylinder showing, it was a yamaha seca 750 circa 1981 model. I had heard about the exile remote master and the PM one, but I don't like spending money. But the stock control that I had was ugly, and I could not find any smaller controls that I liked. On my bike I am absolutely running a front brake, I like front brakes, and big discs look fast. ![]()
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